
Here in southern VT we've had either heavy cloud cover, pouring rain or a steady drizzle for a few weeks - not to mention a definite "nip" in the air. The leaves in our adjoining forest have responded with early color change and the hummingbirds are packing their bags to go south - can't blame them! So much for the ubiquitous, Labor Day picnic. This photo was taken when the sun was still shining in all it's glory this summer. Since I've spoken about solar dyeing in this blog, thought you may like to see these four, recent, "Terry's Tub," set-ups. The two tubs in the foreground hold 2lbs each of tussah silk top. The fiber is being premordanted with alum and a cream of tartar assist. This is the fiber that the 15 participants who have signed up for my "Silken Spinning" class at SOAR '06 will use for their small scarf projects, once I dye it (look for in a later post). Of the tubs behind, one has chopped madder root and the other has black walnut hulls. These last two sat outside all last winter: froze, thawed, froze, etc. These fermenting dyes have been used before by me and will be used for future projects as well.
"Terry's Tub" is just one of several solar set-ups I use. It was developed by Terry Collard of NH. It's concept is blissfully simple. Basically, get yourselves a cement mixing tub from the hardware store. These are black plastic and can be often found in different sizes. Have the hardware store folks cut a piece of plexiglass that will cover the top of the tub. Pick out four c-clamps that will hold the top to the tub. Four, medium-sized rocks keep the corners down nicely. The way it works is that the sun goes through the clear top into the black tub, which holds the heat well. Neat and easy!!
If you want to mordant, like I did, mix the mordant in a jar, in a dye box, and pour it into about a 1" of water that you put in the bottom of the tub. This water should be the same temp as the last rinse water after scouring your fiber. Mix well. Squeeze out excess rinse water from your fiber. Lay it in the bottom of the tub, carefully spreading it out over the bottom. Keep in mind, that in order for the sun to heat up the tub, you can't have a ton of water in there. That said, depending on the amount of fiber you're mordanting, you do want it covered with water. Therefore, if you need more water, carefully push the fiber from one side and pour more in the tub (keep the water temp consistent). It's best not to pour right onto the fiber itself. For two lbs of silk, I may end up with 2 or 3" of water at most. Gently push down on the fiber to insure the take up of the mordant throughout the entirety of the fiber, inside and out. Pop your plexiglass lid on and secure with c-clamps and rocks. Put in the spot that gets the most sun all day. No need to babysit and "watch the pot" (er...tub). Also, isn't it refreshing when one can tap an energy source and NOT get charged?
I often get asked how long I let fiber mordant/dye in the sun. This depends, as you can imagine, on what kind of sun and heat are present. For mordanting, I often let it go longer since I want to insure a proper job. Wishy-washy mordanting means wishy-washy dyeing. That means, at the height of the summer, I'll let it mordant 3 days or so. If I was dyeing under the same conditions, it might be a day or two. If it gets cloudy and colder, I may mordant a few weeks. In fact, I have some merino/silk top that's out there mordanting and has been doing so for just prior to our VT inclement weather. I'll wait for 3 good sunny days of mordanting (Indian summer has to come sometime, doesn't it?!) before I remove the fiber.
Mold can sometimes be a problem if the fiber has been sitting without sun for too long. Black and red mold is dangerous, I'm told. Do wear a mask and gloves when you scoop any mold off. Otherwise, mold doesn't bother me too much & I just remove it from the top when it does occur. Keeping the fiber below the water level cuts down on mold, so weigh it with plates on top of the fiber if you like (remember NOT to use those plates for anything else - never for eating again, please!)
Once mordanted, I remove the fiber and rinse it in clear water several times. I have large, mesh bags - the kind you find athletes use to tote equipment around in - that I put the squeezed fiber in. These bags go into the spin cycle (no water squirting out of the machine) of my washing machine and the remaining rinse water is spun out.
In a later post I'll photograph what I dry my fiber in & on. I didn't realize it was snazzy until Leslie visited and liked it alot. Maybe you will, too.
'course you can replace any of the "fiber" words above for "yarn," if that's what you're mordanting. Again, more on the actual dyeing later. For more info in the meantime, do check out the Summer '05 issue of "Spin-Off".







4 comments:
I'm writing and emailing out the next "Ewesful News" (e-newsletter for the River Spinners of southeastern Vermont) I'll be sure to include a link to your blog! It is amazing how many entries you have made in less than 3 weeks. I hope that this entry will be well visited!
You're right: he is very handsome.
Thanks for sharing all this amazingly useful practical info about solar dyeing! I have sooooo much to learn, and I'm grateful for your generosity.
Hi Jenny,
Fantastic directions on solar mordanting! I'd like to assure your readers that it really works! In fact I have never dyed in a pot on the stove at my house as I don't want to do that in my kitchen. I solar mordanted this summer and dyed with black walnuts, madder root, fermented acorns. rhubarb, and logwood purple. All in Terry's tub and the glass jar painted black. When buying plexiglass at the hardware store, you tell them that scratched is ok, and it will be cheaper. I didn't know that madder root can sit outside all year round. Out it goes!
When you dye with indigo, do you mordant? I have instructions from the instant indigo from Adams Farm.
I bought the Tintex dye remover as it instructs. It does not mention rinsing in vinegar. I seem to remember that we did that when we dyed with instant indigo at Adams Farm ...
Yes, I agree with with all comments about Chris (the nice ones, anyway). I'd love to hear him play sometime.
I have no idea why a comment I left earlier today did not post here, but I'll have a go at it again. It may be because I used illegal html tags in the last comment. Instead, I'll just let you know about
www.mojazzcafe.com in case you're ever in the southern VT area on a weekend. Do check out the site to see who's playing there. Chances are, you'll see Chris in several, different group configurations.
Thank you so much for your kind comments about my Chris. Also, I'm so happy folks are liking the more technical posts about solar mordanting and such. Thanks for your input.
And now, indigo: I generally use a vinegar solution afterbath for everything I dye with indigo. This is because indigo usually requires an alkaline in order for the process to work. Alkalines are NOT protein-friendly and can actually harm wool, silk, etc. Therefore, the vinegar rinse neutralizes the alkalinity. I usually use quite alot more than a "glug" of vinegar in the rinse. Several glugs will do.
For Leslie and all on mordanting for indigo: I only pre-mordant fiber/yarn that, in addition to indigo, will either be top-dyed or bottom-dyed with a dyestuff that needs a mordant to make it stable.
Top-dyeing, say with weld (a plant that makes a great, clear yellow), would mean you'd pre-mordant (or at least that's what I usually do), then dye with indigo, then dye with weld. Bet you'll get some form of lovely green with that combo!
Bottom-dyeing, say also with weld, would mean you'd pre-mordant, dye with weld and then dye with indigo.
Regarding instructions with instant indigo: I would recommend that folks do a Google search for various recipes on using it, or for that manner, the many vat-types for regular indigo dyeing. Compare the possibilities and choose recipes that suit your needs, wants, dye set-up and temperament.
One last thing - remember, whenever you "do" something to a dyestuff, it is an added "variable" that could affect the color possibilities. Therefore, "freezing and thawing" may change things. For madder, it may have a browning effect, similar to if you let the dyebath of madder go higher than about 170 F. I didn't mind this happening, but others may. If you've used the madder roots once or twice, it may be safer to freeze them or let them dry prior to storage for future use. You've got choices, dyers!
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