Friday, July 13, 2007

Spinning From The Fold; Plus Stripping and Predrafting Commercially Prepared Fiber

Woke up to a ruckus this morning. Every dog within the vicinity of our home was barking...that's seven dogs, conservatively. Next thing you know, a typically loud neighbor was yelling at the top of his lungs about all the noisy canines, with much more volume than the collective woofs. Chris and I looked at each other with wide eyes when we then heard a grating chainsaw, the obnoxious revving of an off-road vehicle and finally a single gunshot. Now I don't claim any of these sounds were related to each other, but we guessed the screamer was trying to prove a point to his dog-keeping neighbors. The yelling and barking grew to a fevered pitch, ending with the guy-gone-berserk and one of his family members arguing vehemently within their own home...and we could still here them in our own bedroom. Boy, what was I thinking that life in the country would be quiet? Chaos-wise, Detroit has nothing over rural Vermont.

Before I embark on this post's spinnerly topics, please humor me as I take you on a tour of my present flower gardens. Like other gardeners I know, I enjoy surrounding myself with plants that truly mean something to me...plants which speak to my soul...be it a plant that reminds me of someone dear or of a place I've lived or have otherwise been; or a flower that sparks memories of loved ones who have passed away; or an enticing spicy-smelling variety given to me by a cherished friend; or a plant that's simply old-fashioned (for I'm really an old-timey spider, don'tcha know?)

It seems almost ridiculous to me that I insinuate I am a gardener at all. But that is what I've become; the seeds sown for such a title back when I first became interested in natural dyeing. I figured it was a good idea to at least find out the names of what plants I was using in my dyeing, not to mention whether toxic qualities (or not) were present, leading to more studying...of garden books and the eventual, educational seed catalogs that filled our mailbox. In particular, I've enjoyed plant-chatter with all sorts of friends and acquaintances: Lorry in England; Norma and Marion in Canada; Jenna, Rita, E, Leslie and more in the U.S. I feel so very blessed to have been allowed into the world of stems, leaves and blossoms...a gift bestowed as if by the flower faeries themselves.

Morning Glories used to grow on the fence between my girlfriend, Candy's, home and mine on the east side of Detroit. Of all the varieties available, I can never resist buying a packet of "Heavenly Blue."

Jofran and I met each other at the University of Detroit. Jofran always had the scoop on ever-so-cool things. When she said she grew Lady's Mantle in her yard, I followed suit and haven't been disappointed. For more on Jofran-Chemical Engineer-Knitter-Spinner, see the past posts, EZ's Bog Jacket & A Chinese Worker's Cap and Spindle Plying Using A Nostepinde & Jofran's Knitting.

My oldest brother, Jack, sadly passed away in the 90's from a brain tumor. Besides being a quite accurate amateur weatherman, never failing to give us advance warning of upcoming storms, Jack was an amazing grower and photographer of roses. I planted three Rosa Rugosa's in his honor. As I evolve into a brave gardener, I shall plant other rose varieties...but I'm a bit squeamish about all that pruning involved...

Nasturtiums were just one of Norma's favorite flowers. I didn't even know what a Nasturtium was prior to meeting Norma. Norma too, left us in the 90's after suffering from Leukemia. For more on Norma, Marion and my natural dyeing beginnings, check out the past post, My Early Natural Dyeing Adventures & Brighid's Dyers.

Rita gifted me this delightful, clove-scented Dianthus. I've always loved Carnations, so this plant's serrated blossoms are a perennial favorite.

Here's my Dyer's Chamomile that's doing particularly well this year, thank you.

And finally, are you aware of the really pretty flowers that the potato plant produces? These blossoms happen to be white, but I've seen shades of pink and lavender, too. Like others in the Nightshade family, the flower demonstrates a rather goofy protuberant "nose," which cracks me up.

Out of the garden and on to a book that was gifted to me recently by Jenna. I LOVE this book!!! It's by the same author, Margaret Bloy Graham, who wrote another of my childhood faves, "Harry The Dirty Dog." Note also the neat spider web bowl (also a Jenna-present) and the wonderful Temari ball, gifted by a visitor at my last dayjob where I was the Resident Fiber Artist.

Now for a spinning hiccup: A bit of "spinning from the fold" is in order. It's also called "spinning over the finger," tho' sometimes it's not necessary or even comfortable to fold over an actual finger (as is the case with shortish fibers). How many of you DO spin from the fold, at least occasionally? When I began spinning in the 80's, it didn't seem like too many folks practiced this technique, at least not in public at guilds or gatherings.

I do readily admit that I was once kind of afraid of spinning from the fold. How silly is that? Very silly, given that one often gains more control from the fold than when spinning from the end of a commercially prepared fiber...especially when that fiber is slippery. In fact, I especially recommend spinning from the fold when you first encounter silk top (oh, and by the way, you may want to start with Tussah silk as it has more grip than Bombyx mori), as often a spinner finds success immediately when doing so. Why? Well let's explore the possible reasons...

One can spin from the fold using a lock of fleece or fibers removed from a commercially prepared preparation. One generally (I hate to say never, but maybe it applies here) doesn't spin from the fold using a rolag, as that would defeat the rolag's purpose of spinning from the already-airy spiral of fibers.

When you spin from the fold, you are, in essence, folding the fibers in half. When you do this, right then and there you are adding air into the preparation. I encourage you to stop and try folding any fibers in half and you'll see what I mean! This is as opposed to spinning from the end of commercially prepared top, where all the short fibers have been removed and the remaining long fibers are arranged in a parallel formation, sitting just like little sardines in a can right up next to each other...no air there (unless you add it via stripping and/or predrafting...to the fiber, not the fish.) The fibers that are spun from the fold can often move away (be drafted) from their neighboring fibers more freely...they're given elbow room, so to speak, to maneuver themselves out of the pack easily. Therefore, if you're having trouble drafting fibers from the end of a lock or commercially prepared preparation, do try giving spinning from the fold a shot.

An interesting thing to me is that air is incorporated by the simple act of folding the fibers, minus even having to strip or predraft the fibers first, as I often do when I'm going to spin from the end of top. More on stripping and predrafting at the end of this post. Well, on pondering, I do occasionally strip a particularly thick piece of commercial fiber down for spinning from the fold AND I might even open it up, ever so slightly, horizontally.

Another thing I like about spinning from the fold is that I only have to worry about the fiber folded over my finger...not any excess, such as if I spun from the end of top and it was a rather long length that I was attached to. No worries that two black cats will play with the hanging fibers when spinning from the fold. No tendency to "ruffle" the excess fibers when drafting.

You can really SEE the drafting TRIANGLE (drafting zone) when spinning from the fold. This is rather delightful in and of itself.

On to some pics to demonstrate spinning from the fold...

This is the luscious Gaywool Merino/Silk Top (85% merino/15% silk) I purchased from Louet in the delicate "Camellia" colorway. I've removed some fibers from the end of the top and overlapped them a few times on themselves, in order to determine what the average staple length is. After all, when just looking at top, you can't readily SEE the average staple length, now can you? Knowing the average staple length gives you a starting point on hand placement. If you use a two-handed technique and both hands are clamping on the same staple length, you don't think you're going to be drafting any time soon, do you?

When getting ready to spin from the fold, I removed a length that was a bit beyond the average staple length.

Please note that you may be looking at some very dirty fingernails and stained fingers in the following pics, the above pic included. I apologize but have been doing some weeding of late 'cause I AM a gardener!

The above pic demonstrates the importance of making sure the "tails" are always of equal length. If one tail goes awry, you can be sure that you'll be holding a muddle of fiber before long. If that happens, you may need to disconnect from your spinning and get the tails in order before joining on once again.

If the fiber is long enough to go over my finger, I usually do so over my pointer. Anyone spin from the fold using a different finger? I've never seen it done with anything but the pointer, however one never knows...

If the fiber is shortish, you may not want to fold over your finger at all. In that case, just fold and pinch the fibers between your pointer and thumb, with the fold sitting up above the pinch and your fingers themselves, and spin directly from that fold. Would you like to see a pic and further writing on this in a future post? Would you like to see a demo of spinning from the fold with a lock of fleece, also?

Here's my hand and finger position as I get ready to join fibers on to a leader. I was taught, or read, somewhere to literally point my pointer (and thus the fold of the fiber) to the orifice. This can be done holding the hand to the side, as above, or with the palm faced downwards. I suppose it would work palm up, too, but have never tried that. Have you?

Note how my pinkie, ring and even my thumb will help to keep the tails in order. The thumb can also be used to press down when one needs it for something to draft against.

Think of the fiber you'll spin from the fold as a rather feisty baby bird. You definitely don't want to crush it to death (and fibers do need to play out to be drafted properly) but you need to keep a little firmer hold on the bird's tail(s). For more on the "baby bird analogy" to spinning, see the past post, Please Don't Kill The Baby Bird.

Here's how the fibers will draft from the fold (ie. from the point of your finger.)

My leader is doubled and thus has a loop at the end where the fibers can be brought through in order to secure them to the leader. Please keep an important point in mind: When you spin from the fold, your average staple length has been reduced to a half of a staple length of the original fiber. When you bring this through a leader, as shown above, you are halving that as well (ie. a quarter of the average staple length goes through the leader's loop.)

When you spin half the average staple length, as you do from the fold, please also consider the size of the yarn you are spinning. When twisted, the halved fibers need to make a stable singles; singles that hold together and can actually be called yarn. If you spin a thick singles, you need to be sure the fibers are long enough to go around more than once or twice, for stability's sake. If your halved fibers are short-ish, but you want a bulky-ish sized yarn, you may want to spin as many singles as needed and ply them together (ie. ply the singles up) in order to achieve your goal of a bulky yarn, rather than relying on a one or 2-plied yarn.

Fibers are folded over after going through the leader's loop, awaiting twist to make them securely attached.

Spinning from the fold... Do note that sometimes as you come to spin the very last of the fibers on your finger, you'll find them a wee bit grizzly. I'm guessing that it has something to do with a few short fibers escaping the combing process in top, being left after the long fibers draft out...or hey, maybe my pointer is just sweaty. If I encounter such fibers, I usually do not spin them and simply remove them.

Pic above shows documentation of a 2-ply, with singles spun from the fold. According to my notes, I spun the fiber using a supported, point-of-contact, sliding American long draw on my Schacht "Matchless" wheel; Scotch tension mode; 9:1 ratio. The singles were Andean plied (technique will be shown next post or one soon after). The swatch is stockinette, knit with U.S. # 7 needles.

Lastly, I thought it would be fun to show, especially to beginning spinners, how I (and many other spinners I know) deal with commercially spun fiber prior to spinning from the END. There won't be any actual spinning-from-the-end-instruction today, but would you like to see that in a future post?

In some of the classes I teach, I have recently encountered, from more than one student, that there's a negative sentiment brewing out there in spinning land that suggests it's not a good thing at all to strip or even predraft fiber. Word has it that it's been called cheating. The first time I heard this I was flabbergasted (the second time I heard it, from a completely different source, I knew I had to write about it), as I don't believe there's anything that can be equated with cheating when you're discussing spinning technique...and that includes starting the wheel with your hands, if need be. Why folks are scolded for practicing whatever spinning techniques that please them is beyond me. My humble advice is to pay such nonsense no attention, learn as many different ways as you can to achieve success in a wide-range of situations, and enjoy your spinning.

Stripping (can you imagine how many folks will find me on this blog with just this word...and they won't be spinners, mind you...): Vertically splitting a commercially prepared fiber into smaller segments. You can strip just in half or you can strip the fiber further down (ie. 3rds, 4ths, 5ths or more). I like stripping because I end up holding less fiber in my hands, and that pleases me immensely...especially during hot, sticky summer weather. I also like stripping because air begins to be incorporated around the fibers.

I once, long ago, heard a spinning instructor say that stripping mucked up the fibers...turning beautifully prepared fibers into a mess. I agree that often some fly-away fibers stick out a bit after stripping, but these fibers are usually soon tamed back into place with a bit of predrafting. In any case, it's YOUR CHOICE which techniques are used to help you to achieve spinning bliss.

Heaven knows how long a commercially prepared fiber has sat in a closed bag, condensed so much it's hard to see the fiber's potential. Stripping helps bring such fiber to the light of day.

Beginning to strip. Stripping is a very purposeful act...no petting or ruffling of the fibers, please.

Continued stripping. I usually strip just a yard or so at a time...not the whole bag of fiber.

On to predrafting...Once again, knowing the average staple length of the fiber is helpful. 'course this was the same fiber as was used earlier.

Predrafting further helps the possibly condensed, commercially prepared fibers to begin to slip past each other. This slippage makes for MUCH EASIER drafting, either at your wheel or when spinning with your hand spindle.

Hold the fiber with your two hands a bit beyond the average staple length.

1) Draw out to what would be about a 1/4 - 1/2 of the average staple length. 2) If the rest of the non-predrafted-fiber is on the left (as mine in the pic above is), move the right hand to the middle of what you just predrafted and move the left hand the same distance to the left of where it is now. To continue predrafting, repeat the 2 steps above. Aim for a product that is free of thick and thin places...being instead uniformly predrafted all throughout its length.

There's another method I know of for predrafting that I'll be happy to show next time, if you like. Do you have a favorite predrafting method? If so, please share.

I'll end with a plug to Tamara's blog, Spincerely Yours. She's written a dandy tutorial entitled, Lazy Kate has us Working, which will help YOU to make your own tensioned Lazy Kate. Also look for Tamara's solar dyeing posts...very inspiring.




21 comments:

Melinda said...

Great post! Thank you. I wrote you a while back about the troubles I was having spinning merino top and what has helped me immensely is to spin from the fold -- soooooo much easier!

loribird said...

Yes, please, on the spinning-from-the-end instruction, and the other pre-drafting method... I'm going to try spinning from the fold next time I sit at the wheel, just to see what a difference it makes - great tutorial, by the way. Thank you!

Laritza said...

Cheating? now that is a new one! Great post.

Jeannine Bakriges said...

A lovely e-mail came in from Drea ~
Dear Spinning Spyder:

I tried to comment but your comment thingie wouldn't load!(NOTE FROM SPIDER~ PLEASE BE SURE TO EITHER LET THE WHOLE PAGE LOAD PRIOR TO CLICKING ON THE COMMENT LINK OR HIT THE STOP BUTTON AS THE WHOLE PAGE IS LOADING...THEN HIT THE COMMENT LINK AND WRITE... THANKS!!)

If you remember, I'm the baby spinner here. Well - I read your post - I guess I'm a cheater - naturally! I immediately began splitting my roving and pre-drafting - and was able to get lovely even, consistent singles right away. You can see a progression from fat, to medium to thin singes in what I've spun so far but no matter how course the early stuff was there are very few SLUBS in the early spools and NO SLUBS by my third spool. I'm now getting nice thin singles which, when plied should make a useable dk weight yarn. (Thanks for the tip bout letting the single twist back on itself to get the 'weight'!)

So - phooey on those who say splitting and pre-drafting is cheating! (I know you're not one of those). It's just amusing, because I just instinctively did those things and they work for me. (I'm using a double-drive by the way and I don't know from ratio's yet!) Pam (spinner friend with 30 years' experience) taught me how to spin worsted.

By the way - personally - I don't like drafting from the fold - I did try it when another friend of mine - who's been spinning a bit longer than I - but who didn't learn from Pam - showed me the "correct" way to spin. "You MUST spin from the fold!" Well - all her stuff is too thick with no twist to it - because it's too thick and she doesn't get enough pull - and she can't keep a drafting zone. She also 'clucked' when I showed her the backwards pull - o well - I tried to help.

I join end to end - a combo of 'teasing' and drafting at the same time and letting the twist take it up - is it perfect always - no - but it's pretty good and NO SLUBS! And it's pretty even. Yes - I'm on a quest for even-ness.

So - to end this long winded and opinionated email - YES - show more "from the end" stuff!

And thanks for your wonderful blog! My expert spinner friend has been away plus she lives far away so really, after her initial lesson I've been on my own and your blog is a great help and inspiration - although my 'gut instincts' have served pretty well. That and 'keeping at it like a galley slave' - you either need patience or stubborness in fibre arts - guess which virtue I have ...
Be well,
D.
NB - o regarding the use of wool spun anti-clockwise in magical workings - anti-clockwise - or widdershins - is the use of negative (not necessarily 'bad') energies. It is used for banishings - pushing things away - so it can be used positively if you get my drift. Or it can be used for the bad - it all depends upon one's intent. But one could use such widdershin spun wool in a garment designed to ward off ill will and all bane and send it back to the sender again ... in this case - it would be a positive and protective use of such energies.

By the way - ALWAYS stir your cooking Sunwise- clockwise - that's old folk magic - my mother taught me that one - you want to imbue your food with positive energies. I go nutters when someone stirs anti-clockwise! Aack! You can also bless your beverage by gently swirling it clockwise three times before drinking.

Saralyn said...

Tremendously helpful information. As a very beginner spindler, I really appreciate the care you put into photographing and explaining techniques. Thanks.

Valerie said...

Nice spinning post. I have spun from the fold, mostly when I was learning to spin bombyx silk from a brick. It was like learning a magic trick! I don't think I've ever tried it with wool or very short staple fibers.

Splitting tops and predrafting commercial fibers: IMO 99% of the spinning outcome is related to fiber preparation. Splitting a pre-drafting commercially prepared fibers is fiber prep. in my book. It's no more cheating than washing, carding or combing wool!

In fact, I even predraft fibers I've prepared myself on the drum carder.

Spincerely said...

Oh Jenny, your posts always make me wish I had more time at my spinning wheel! I love both these tutorials! Your blog is sort of like a online spinning class. One week we work on our plying, the next we learn to spin from the fold, and who knows what else is to come!
I love your garden photos too. I also love to have plants in my garden that have meaning to me. It is one of the things that makes growing flowers so special.
Oh yes, and thanks for the nice compliments about my blog. That is really sweet of you!

Marcy said...

I found your blog a couple weeks ago, and I love it! I'm a newbie spinner, and I'm obsessively trying to read everything and learn everything.

It's great to see you talk about spinning from the fold. Someone suggested it to me when I explained to her what kind of problems I was having with drafting. She said, "Try spinning from the fold." So, I looked it up, found a couple vidoes/tutorials and I tried it. And I am taking to it like a duck to water. I seem to be able to draft that way much better than the "regular" way.

The problem I was having while drafting the regular way was that the fiber wanted to pull out of one small section on the side, and the rest of the fiber would bunch up in my hand. If I pulled it apart the way it naturally wanted to go, it would separate into pencil roving, basically. Does this make any sense?

I think my fiber was subpar. The stuff I'm spinning from the fold is really nice BFL top. The other stuff that wouldn't draft nicely even the regular way was some crappy roving.

llamafarmgirl said...

I love to spin from the fold - I love that I learned it from you as well :)

Your garden is beautiful! Thanks for sharing.

Miss you!

E

Sarah said...

WoW! I never knew that there were folks out there who think that what I do with my fiber is cheating. Thanks for the info on spinning from the fold. I have so much to learn and try. Being a beginning spinner is an adventure!

sopranospinner said...

Cheating!?!? Every fiber prep, every stage of fiber prep, including predrafting, splitting, pulling off staples for spinning from the fold, all affect the resulting yarn. The only question is what result do you want!

I did a fun experiment last winter. I spun 2-ply yarns from four different colorways, plied with themselves and with each other. One yarn was spun from the fold and the other from the end of the top. I wanted to see what the difference was in how the colors played out. It turned out, with that particular set of rovings, that the yarn spun from the fold mixed the colors more. And I got more yardage. It was a fascinating experiment! And a beautiful pair of socks!

I enjoy spinning from the fold, especially superwash wool, because it seems magical, it's so easy. Thanks for the great post!

Lucy said...

Hi Jenny! I Love your flowers, Of course you SHOULD call yourself a gardner! I had no idea that potatoes gave us such beautiful flowers and Your roses in honor of your brother are amazing. I also loved the book harry the dirty dog and recognized the illustration as being similar. What a perfect book for a perfectly nice spider! I miss u :)

Lisa said...

Hon, I can't wait till your book comes out. If it's half as good as your blog it will be money very well spent ;-)

Jeannine Bakriges said...

Thank you EVERYONE who took the time to comment and give your opinions/ideas!
Cheers, Jenny

jenna said...

totaly sold on stripping all commercial top before using my spindle. have hard time from the fold onto spindle though.
jenna

Anonymous said...

Thanks again for a wonderfully informative post! I've been wanting to learn to spin from the fold, so this was extremely helpful. If you don't mind a rather dumb newbie question, how do you join on more fiber when spinning from the fold? Either the next bunch doesn't seem to want to attach (which means my spindle ends up on the floor :) ) or too many of them grab on, which leaves a funny lump.

Thanks,
terri

Jeannine Bakriges said...

Terri ~ Look for joining in the very near future. Thank you for the suggestion.

Suzanne said...

Jenny,

Thank you so much for sharing your wonderful knowledge on your blog. I appreciate the way that you discuss what works best for you, but you never seem to be trying to insist that there is a "right" way to do things.

I am a fairly new spinner, and I have mostly learned from reading hints on the internet and from taking a couple of lessons on the basics. I started stripping my rovings and predrafting very early on since it seemed to make it much easier to spin and gave me much better results. Since I am a knitter, I really wanted yarn that I could knit with and yarn that would please me while knitting. I recently took an intense six hour workshop at a fiber festival, and while I really enjoyed learning a lot about the craft of spinning from an expert, I noticed that the teacher seemed to be one of the more opinionated types that others have mentioned in the comments. One thing that she was very strong about was that we were "ruining" the expensive rovings we were buying by stripping them. She insisted that we should learn to spin without splitting or stripping and that we should also use long draw for the best results. I just smiled to myself and tried to practice what she was teaching while telling myself that if I didn't like it, I would go right back to the method that works well for me when I got home. However, some other women were close to tears because they were so frustrated. I, too, noticed like one of your other commentators that the instructor's yarn was a lot chunkier and less twisted than the kind of yarn with which I like to knit. She was obviously very skilled and looked lovely spinning long draw, but for many of us new spinners who come to it from knitting, it is all about the enjoying the process, but also liking the yarn we make for knitting. I appreciate the way you seem to understand that different spinners come to the craft from different perspectives and that not one technique works well for everyone.

I can't wait until your book comes out!

Suzanne

Jeannine Bakriges said...

Again, many thanks to ALL who took the time to comment.

Jenna ~ We'll work together on spinning from the fold on a spindle. I'm guessing you're gonna love it!

Suzanne ~ You can't imagine how much I appreciate getting your comment. Thank you! I'm so sorry to hear that ANY spinner is made to feel bad by any other spinner or spinning instructor...just for practicing a spinning technique that they like and that works for them.

welsh said...

Ohhh, a wandering wayfarer I, happened upon your blog on a search for sympathy writings, of all things (when one so loved is gone from the fold...)- and, don't you know it, here I am at your lovely little post-al home.
Spinning is on my list of things to learn, although it will have to find a spot on the schedule after some of my current committments are completed.
I am an artist and teacher, natural health counselor and a very new blogger.
I needed to post, first of all to tell you how much I love it when someone touches another person's life without even realizing it, and to tell you that you have done so this morning as I sit with my herbal tea getting ready to plow through my self-assigned day, AND to tell you that if you are growing nasturtiums(lovely picture, btw), that you must
try the blossoms in a salad.
Yes, nasturtiums are one of the edible flowers. They have a light peppery flavor and make a great accent, both visually and tastefully. Ohhhhh, and it's an old post of yours, so I don't imagine you will be looking any time soon, or even later.
My pleasure to have visited, dear Jeannine.

Jeannine Bakriges said...

Dear welsh,
Your comments made me very, very happy. Thank you so much for taking the time to say that my tappings touched you. Can you see?...I'm grinning from ear to ear!
It's comments such as your's that make me want to continue blogging.
My best to you,
Jenny